A seriously good carved piece at the Auckland Museum.
The front of the Auckland Museum.
Some dork hanging out in the Marae (traditional Maori meeting house) on display in the museum.
The lovely kowhaiwhai (ko-fye-fye) design used in many Maori designs.
Our last day in New Zealand was spent touring the Auckland Museum. We had a bunch of time to kill so what better way than to catch up on more Maori culture, (not that we were lacking it of course).
We were blown away by the volume and quality of Maori art and artifacts they had on display. It was funny to read that some of these carved pieces were found in swamps or tree hollow, (depending on their size), like they were just discarded or forgotten – I would have killed to have a few of them! And now they are worth mucho denero.
My dad pointed out the only empty display case in the Maori exhibit. A card read that the display had been removed at the request of family members. Both my dad and I have a good idea what was there: Preserved Maori heads that were tattooed. Long ago men of high ranking in the tribes and sub-tribes had their faces tattooed, or mokos. It seems that after the Europeans starting traveling to NZD there became a black market for Maori tattooed heads, sans torso, limbs and all that. Maoris were whacking other Maoris that bore the moko and selling them to the pakeha, the white man. It's one of the few flaws of the old Maoris that seems to be not talked about too much. Makes me think twice about finishing my back piece!
After the museum we tried to find our way to the Auckland Bay Bridge but Auckland is much bigger than I thought and we gave up after many u-turns and other various illegal vehicle maneuvers. So we got to the airport quite early and waited.
And waited.
And waited.
Finally we left New Zealand and endured 24 hours of travel-hell with no sleep, no air conditioning, and stinky-assed passengers, (someone had nasty fumes eminating from their backside as we flew across the Pacific). Then home at last.
For me this trip was not only educational and recreational but also a bit spiritual. Learning more about my Maori side of the family and getting to not only meet, but really hang out with most of them, is something I'll treasure for the rest of my life. Plus, I have some sweet ideas for more Maori tattoos!
Now, I just have to figure out how I can convince Britt to move there.
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