Massacre Pics

Starting up Chip off the Old Block, trying for the onsight. Note: "trying".

Onsight of Twinkle Toes.

Troy "Bender" Neu cracking some un-P.C. joke before the send of Chip.

Just below the anchors on the fun ending
of Twinkle Toes.

Thanks for the great pics Bruce! Next time bring your harness!

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Diary of a Slacker: Week in Review

The Blackfoot River seen from Rapid Wall.

Ethan and thunderstorm. Harkness Canyon.

Chip off the Old Block, .12a, Massacre Rocks.
Goes up the detached flake and onto the rad scoop.

Madeline and one of her many, many,
many furry friends.

Oodles of chossy limestone high above Wolverine Canyon.
Thwarted once again.

I took this past week off of work to enjoy the Indian Summer we've been enjoying. No big plans other than to finish up some projects at home, spend time with the kids and climb. I could get use to this life very easily.

On the family side, nothing really noteworthy other I got to spend more time with the chitlins than I usually do – kind of like pulling Mr. Mom shifts. Acting like I'm one of those husbands that have a wife who works and pulls in all the dough so I don't have to, lol!

On the climbing side, hitting Massacre a couple of times and ticking some great routes. Switchblade at the Gang Fight Wall and Chip off the Old Block and Holey Moley at the Far Side are must-do's! Plus, I got to fully equip a new line at South Park that I've had my eye on for a while, probably clocks in around .12c/d. Still needs to be cleaned a bit though. I also went scouting one day in Wolverine Canyon but got thwarted. Went out and visited Rapid Wall too for the hell of it to see if anything looked inspiring. It's a basalt wall Mike and I bolted back in about '03 or so that's short and nothing to brag about. But, it's climbing and the routes are moderate. I don't know if it was the fine beer I had just enjoyed before descending to the base of the wall or the residual effects of disappointment from the hike I just took in Wolverine but I came away from Rapid Wall with some ideas for new routes. Gear routes may be possible too.

An interesting thing happened in our neighborhood one day this week: Ethan's school had a "Walk to School Day". He and I were cruising it via foot power when one of his friends rode up to us and informed us that there was a mountain lion sighting about an hour ago only blocks from our house. We had Izzy dog with us and I figured the cat would go after her before trying anything on us (sorry Izzy). Kind of funny seeing a couple of blokes walking the neighborhood with their hunting dogs, hopefully packing heat under those coats too.

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HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRITT!

We love you "Chickeedee"!
Matt, Ethan, Madeline & Izzy-dog

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Harkness Canyon Exploration

Yesterday Ethan had the day off from school and wanted an "adventure". I've been wanting to check out Harkness Canyon for climbing possibilities and had heard of a small amount of activity up there. So the "adventure" was on.

I've never been to the canyon before and was unclear on how to approach the cliffs up high. You can't drive to the end of the road due to private property. It is really unfortunate because these cliffs are way up there, at about 7,200' and the road is at 6,200' which would already make for quite the vertical haul if you were able to drive to the end of the road. But for now, (as far I as I could tell,) you have to hike the Boundary Trail which adds considerable more time as it meanders on switchbacks to accommodate mechanized vehicles (4 wheelers, dirt bikes). Even being unfamiliar to the area, I'd imagine that the land owner isn't going to change their mind just for climbers.

Nonetheless, I was blown away at the size, angles and, as far as I could tell, quality of limestone. I'm getting pretty good at being able to eye from afar what is decent limestone and what isn't in eastern Idaho and from what I could see, Harkness could deliver some seriousness…maybe too much!



Ethan did great on the hike in and out. He did take a mean header though as we were booking it out of there to get off the exposed ridge when the storm cell I had been keeping my eye on decided to switch directions and come straight at us with much fury. This morning his knee is banged up and swollen but he's a trooper and still wants to get back out there.

I hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes by writing about Harkness but maybe there's a way to work with the land owner to allow a climber's trail that discretely winds it way through their property while staying out of view. The amount of good moderate-to-hard climbing possibilities there seem to warrant looking into it at least. The only thing is though is you still have to deal with the 1,000' uphill approach. Time to buy a lama.

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The Return of Thunder...Dr. Benson, that is

Mike Benson warms up on the Big Dam Boulder, Teton Dam.

Dr. Benson showing the kids how it's done.

Today was a pretty cool day for me. I was able to share it bouldering with some good friends who I don't actually get to climb with all that much. Yeah, we correspond via email, text and what-not on a weekly basis and they are always considerate in inviting me to join them. Alas though, conflicting schedules and, well, just life, seem to get in the way. So it was a real treat to spend even just a couple of precious hours with these folks. But even more so was the treat of having my good friend Mike come out today.

Mike and I first started in climbing together back 2001. He was the strong, experienced 5.12 climber and I was the weenie-inexperienced-barely-breaking-into-5.11a climber (not much has changed I guess, lol!) Most of what I've learned about movement, technique, training, and such, I owe to Mike.

Even I as got stronger and gained some technique, Mike was always the one who could sort out cruxes on routes quickly and work redpoints efficiently. Even when he'd take extended breaks from climbing, it never ceased to amaze me how much knowledge, mainly in the form of good techinque, he'd retain and be able to get back to form quickly. And I could totally see that today.

Mike hasn't been climbing much for the past 2-3 years. Family and other interests in life have kept him happy and busy. But what little we did today I could see all that knowledge coming out as he climbed. You can learn a lot from just watching someone with good technique – even if they aren't currently at their top climbing potential. Pretty damn cool, if you ask me.

As life progresses, we all eventually take up new and different interests. I've known a number of people that have drifted away from climbing to pursue other passions. I figure as long as you're passionate about whatever it is you do, then keep doing it. Never mind what the masses think.

But it would be awesome to see Mike back out there crushing it!

"You've gotta dance like there's nobody watching,
Love like you'll never be hurt,
Sing like there's nobody listening,
And live like it's heaven on earth."

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Teton Canyon Exploration

Foreground: Madeline; Background: Destination.

Joe Cool, The Sail Hoister, The Swan, Table Mtn., and the Grand.

Entry/Exit point.

Yesterday we took a trip up to Teton Canyon in hopes of scoping some boulders I saw back in spring when I snowboarded Boy Scout Chute, nestled in the cliffs behind the Boy Scout camp (hence the name).

Well, we didn't make it to the boulders due to underestimating the distance, terrain and inclement weather. It was a little much for 3 year old Madi, even though she wouldn't have minded continuing on, but we didn't feel like making it into a possible epic. However, the kids enjoyed it and as long as we're all together it doesn't really matter what we're doing. I'm just appreciative of Brittany putting up with my constant urge to keep exploring the nooks and crannies of our outdoor playgrounds, looking for a possible new area to climb at.

I have reason to believe that the area has already seen some action, so I am eager to get back there and check things out. Ethan told me he's game for the next recon out there. Sweet.

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Lost River Range Exploration

Parking area. Yes, those boulders are HUGE.

Warming up on something easy.

Yesterday I needed a solo day to get away from people and just be outside so I recruited Izzy to accompany me to scope out some boulders my friend Marc had told me about.

Located near Darlington, north of Arco, these boulders are somewhat visible from the road. However, it's not until you reach the parking area for them that the size of these blocs becomes apparent – some of them are HUGE.

The blocs range from 3 move problems to 35' sketch-fests. The landings on a lot of the boulders need to have some work done to them to make them safe.

Total poser shot.

Too chicken to commit after this move due to back breaking landing.
Great potential on this bloc though.

Stick clip is about 4' tall, fyi.

If this thing were at Red Rocks, it'd have bolts on it.
It's about 25'-35' tall with bad landings.

From what I can tell, not a lot of people have been out there yet but I did find chalk on a few problems. Pretty fun stuff. I also did a few fresh looking problems (no signs of being climbed before) and had fun trashing my tips. The stone is SHARP!

I tried an insane (for me anyway) line on this and didn't get very far.

Seeking shade and a sane landing zone on "3 the Hard Way".

This fun V0 had chalk on it, shade and a good landing.

Kick ass problem in the middle that kicked my ass.

I walked away from the bouldering thinking that it was pretty decent but it needs to have a lot of work done at the bases of many of the blocs and cleaning of holds, mainly to de-tune the sharp holds (is that legit in bouldering?) and break off loose holds that you don't want snapping off on you when you're cruxing 15' off the deck.

Next it was on to Little Burnettt Canyon to scope more stone…this time for sport climbing though. There's a cliff band in the canyon that is as long as the Main Wall at Sinks Canyon, about 80' tall and kick ass angles BUT...you guessed it, choss-a-rama.

Picture of said choss. Nice angles and length but…

Izzydog keeping an eye on things.

It's kind of a bummer that this area of Idaho has so much limestone but a lot of it is not worthy for climbing. My friends Marc and Dean can attest to the low percentage rate of success one achieves when out scouting for new stone to climb in south/east Idaho. But, that's not to say there isn't more good limestone out there – you just gotta keep an open mind go explore some more.

Edit: A couple of things for those about to rock:

1. to reach the parking area you need a high clearance vehicle, 4WD doesn't hurt either. without high clearance you'll have to walk the last 1/4 mi. uphill to reach parking area, then the boulders are only a few hudred yards uphill.

2. hot. when I was there yesterday, the temp in the valley was only 68˚ but in the sun up at the boulders, it was hot.

3. bad landings. really, the place needs some serious work to make safe landings.

4. the place is pretty cool, but it's no Joe's. still has the potential to be legit though.

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Ready for the spotlight

Madeline did this all by herself today!
(If you can't tell, it's her name. Madi, with a long "a", lol)
Way to go girl.

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Blood, Sweat and Ink: Part2

Yesterday I got to finish my sleeve down in Salt Lake. At 7 straight hours (with only three 5 minute breaks!), I think I reached my max and am glad Taki finished when he did. My left foot was starting to twitch and with each passing stroke of the gun, I kept hoping that it was the last one.

For a cover-up, Taki did a sweet job. My only regret is I wish I was starting from a clean slate and not covering up 3 good sized tats. However, what he was able to design looks 100% better than what I had on there before. Plus, it now has meaning.

Not to step on any toes, but the whole skulls and "hardcore" ink is just not for me anymore. Not to say there aren't sweet tats out there of that style but to me skulls, spiderwebs, etc. aren't part of my lifestyle, I guess you could say. Maybe it's that I'm not "hardcore" or something. Who knows, but that art doesn't mean anything to me.

Most of my family and friends don't care for tattoos and I'm fine with that. But some of them need to realize that just because they don't understand it, it doesn't mean its wrong. It's O.K. to NOT understand some things. It's what makes us individuals and unique.

Also, I think as long as your ink means something to you then that's all that matters. I know a friend who has a ton of ink, some good, some bad. His perspective is that each tat reminds him of a certain point in his life, kind of like a time line, or, road signs, as he called them. Makes sense to me.

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Tour of Cedar Creek

Marc Hanselman showing us how it's done on Jewel Thief.

Shaking off the pump at the anchors.

Chicken Out Ridge on Mt. Borah on the center skyline.

Tom at the start of Jewel Thief.

Tom warming up on a great .10+ named Fingerprints.

Yesterday Tom and I traveled to Cedar Creek in the Lost River Range to sample a new crag our friend Marc has been bolting.

Nestled in the shadow of Mt. Borah, the wall sits at about 8,200'. With a northerly aspect, tall pines and a healthy creek flowing just yards away it is a perfect summer crag that stays cool and sees hardly any direct sunlight.

The wall isn't particularly big, but with an average route height of 60' and current route count at about 25 (half of which are .11 – .13), there is plenty of fun to be had. The angles and hold selections make for powerful and pumpy, yet, tendon-friendly climbing. Pretty damn good combination, if you ask me. The limestone is similar to Slim Shady wall in Teton Canyon but slightly overhung for the most part.

Unfortunately it was a pretty high gravity day for me (I think I was still recovering from the Social D show, seriously, lol) so I didn't send anything noteworthy but I did sample routes that were certainly worth going back to redpoint. Jewel Thief and Caught on Tape – two .12's that are damn good routes.

Kudos to Marc for all the hard work. I'll be back for sure.

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