The Return of Thunder...Dr. Benson, that is

Mike Benson warms up on the Big Dam Boulder, Teton Dam.

Dr. Benson showing the kids how it's done.

Today was a pretty cool day for me. I was able to share it bouldering with some good friends who I don't actually get to climb with all that much. Yeah, we correspond via email, text and what-not on a weekly basis and they are always considerate in inviting me to join them. Alas though, conflicting schedules and, well, just life, seem to get in the way. So it was a real treat to spend even just a couple of precious hours with these folks. But even more so was the treat of having my good friend Mike come out today.

Mike and I first started in climbing together back 2001. He was the strong, experienced 5.12 climber and I was the weenie-inexperienced-barely-breaking-into-5.11a climber (not much has changed I guess, lol!) Most of what I've learned about movement, technique, training, and such, I owe to Mike.

Even I as got stronger and gained some technique, Mike was always the one who could sort out cruxes on routes quickly and work redpoints efficiently. Even when he'd take extended breaks from climbing, it never ceased to amaze me how much knowledge, mainly in the form of good techinque, he'd retain and be able to get back to form quickly. And I could totally see that today.

Mike hasn't been climbing much for the past 2-3 years. Family and other interests in life have kept him happy and busy. But what little we did today I could see all that knowledge coming out as he climbed. You can learn a lot from just watching someone with good technique – even if they aren't currently at their top climbing potential. Pretty damn cool, if you ask me.

As life progresses, we all eventually take up new and different interests. I've known a number of people that have drifted away from climbing to pursue other passions. I figure as long as you're passionate about whatever it is you do, then keep doing it. Never mind what the masses think.

But it would be awesome to see Mike back out there crushing it!

"You've gotta dance like there's nobody watching,
Love like you'll never be hurt,
Sing like there's nobody listening,
And live like it's heaven on earth."

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Teton Canyon Exploration

Foreground: Madeline; Background: Destination.

Joe Cool, The Sail Hoister, The Swan, Table Mtn., and the Grand.

Entry/Exit point.

Yesterday we took a trip up to Teton Canyon in hopes of scoping some boulders I saw back in spring when I snowboarded Boy Scout Chute, nestled in the cliffs behind the Boy Scout camp (hence the name).

Well, we didn't make it to the boulders due to underestimating the distance, terrain and inclement weather. It was a little much for 3 year old Madi, even though she wouldn't have minded continuing on, but we didn't feel like making it into a possible epic. However, the kids enjoyed it and as long as we're all together it doesn't really matter what we're doing. I'm just appreciative of Brittany putting up with my constant urge to keep exploring the nooks and crannies of our outdoor playgrounds, looking for a possible new area to climb at.

I have reason to believe that the area has already seen some action, so I am eager to get back there and check things out. Ethan told me he's game for the next recon out there. Sweet.

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Lost River Range Exploration

Parking area. Yes, those boulders are HUGE.

Warming up on something easy.

Yesterday I needed a solo day to get away from people and just be outside so I recruited Izzy to accompany me to scope out some boulders my friend Marc had told me about.

Located near Darlington, north of Arco, these boulders are somewhat visible from the road. However, it's not until you reach the parking area for them that the size of these blocs becomes apparent – some of them are HUGE.

The blocs range from 3 move problems to 35' sketch-fests. The landings on a lot of the boulders need to have some work done to them to make them safe.

Total poser shot.

Too chicken to commit after this move due to back breaking landing.
Great potential on this bloc though.

Stick clip is about 4' tall, fyi.

If this thing were at Red Rocks, it'd have bolts on it.
It's about 25'-35' tall with bad landings.

From what I can tell, not a lot of people have been out there yet but I did find chalk on a few problems. Pretty fun stuff. I also did a few fresh looking problems (no signs of being climbed before) and had fun trashing my tips. The stone is SHARP!

I tried an insane (for me anyway) line on this and didn't get very far.

Seeking shade and a sane landing zone on "3 the Hard Way".

This fun V0 had chalk on it, shade and a good landing.

Kick ass problem in the middle that kicked my ass.

I walked away from the bouldering thinking that it was pretty decent but it needs to have a lot of work done at the bases of many of the blocs and cleaning of holds, mainly to de-tune the sharp holds (is that legit in bouldering?) and break off loose holds that you don't want snapping off on you when you're cruxing 15' off the deck.

Next it was on to Little Burnettt Canyon to scope more stone…this time for sport climbing though. There's a cliff band in the canyon that is as long as the Main Wall at Sinks Canyon, about 80' tall and kick ass angles BUT...you guessed it, choss-a-rama.

Picture of said choss. Nice angles and length but…

Izzydog keeping an eye on things.

It's kind of a bummer that this area of Idaho has so much limestone but a lot of it is not worthy for climbing. My friends Marc and Dean can attest to the low percentage rate of success one achieves when out scouting for new stone to climb in south/east Idaho. But, that's not to say there isn't more good limestone out there – you just gotta keep an open mind go explore some more.

Edit: A couple of things for those about to rock:

1. to reach the parking area you need a high clearance vehicle, 4WD doesn't hurt either. without high clearance you'll have to walk the last 1/4 mi. uphill to reach parking area, then the boulders are only a few hudred yards uphill.

2. hot. when I was there yesterday, the temp in the valley was only 68˚ but in the sun up at the boulders, it was hot.

3. bad landings. really, the place needs some serious work to make safe landings.

4. the place is pretty cool, but it's no Joe's. still has the potential to be legit though.

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