Climbing 101

I've been eagerly awaiting the time when our kids (mainly Madi) would ask me to take them climbing - and it looks like that time has arrived.

Ethan has tied in a few times over the past few years but recently he's shown quite an interest in climbing. He's learned to tie his own figure 8 knot and is eager to learn how to belay. I think he's getting hooked.

Tonight was Madi's first time ever and she showed much spirit and vigor. Like most little kids, she got a bit freaked out at times but stuck with it. As long as she was smiling, I knew she was good to keep going. She was even busting out the occassional rebel yell and a few grunts as she climbed - a true sign of a spirited 6 year old.

Like most parents, Britt and I introduce the kids to different activities and wait to see which ones they take to. I've always told myself that I'd wait until they ask me to take them climbing (although I admit, I have put the bug in their ears on occassion) as opposed to forcing it on them. Just because that's dad's activity doesn't mean it has to be theirs. I have to admit though, visions of family climbing trips to Wild Iris, Yosemite or Spain(!) have played in my mind from time to time!

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Diary of a Slacker: Week in Review

The Blackfoot River seen from Rapid Wall.

Ethan and thunderstorm. Harkness Canyon.

Chip off the Old Block, .12a, Massacre Rocks.
Goes up the detached flake and onto the rad scoop.

Madeline and one of her many, many,
many furry friends.

Oodles of chossy limestone high above Wolverine Canyon.
Thwarted once again.

I took this past week off of work to enjoy the Indian Summer we've been enjoying. No big plans other than to finish up some projects at home, spend time with the kids and climb. I could get use to this life very easily.

On the family side, nothing really noteworthy other I got to spend more time with the chitlins than I usually do – kind of like pulling Mr. Mom shifts. Acting like I'm one of those husbands that have a wife who works and pulls in all the dough so I don't have to, lol!

On the climbing side, hitting Massacre a couple of times and ticking some great routes. Switchblade at the Gang Fight Wall and Chip off the Old Block and Holey Moley at the Far Side are must-do's! Plus, I got to fully equip a new line at South Park that I've had my eye on for a while, probably clocks in around .12c/d. Still needs to be cleaned a bit though. I also went scouting one day in Wolverine Canyon but got thwarted. Went out and visited Rapid Wall too for the hell of it to see if anything looked inspiring. It's a basalt wall Mike and I bolted back in about '03 or so that's short and nothing to brag about. But, it's climbing and the routes are moderate. I don't know if it was the fine beer I had just enjoyed before descending to the base of the wall or the residual effects of disappointment from the hike I just took in Wolverine but I came away from Rapid Wall with some ideas for new routes. Gear routes may be possible too.

An interesting thing happened in our neighborhood one day this week: Ethan's school had a "Walk to School Day". He and I were cruising it via foot power when one of his friends rode up to us and informed us that there was a mountain lion sighting about an hour ago only blocks from our house. We had Izzy dog with us and I figured the cat would go after her before trying anything on us (sorry Izzy). Kind of funny seeing a couple of blokes walking the neighborhood with their hunting dogs, hopefully packing heat under those coats too.

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Harkness Canyon Exploration

Yesterday Ethan had the day off from school and wanted an "adventure". I've been wanting to check out Harkness Canyon for climbing possibilities and had heard of a small amount of activity up there. So the "adventure" was on.

I've never been to the canyon before and was unclear on how to approach the cliffs up high. You can't drive to the end of the road due to private property. It is really unfortunate because these cliffs are way up there, at about 7,200' and the road is at 6,200' which would already make for quite the vertical haul if you were able to drive to the end of the road. But for now, (as far I as I could tell,) you have to hike the Boundary Trail which adds considerable more time as it meanders on switchbacks to accommodate mechanized vehicles (4 wheelers, dirt bikes). Even being unfamiliar to the area, I'd imagine that the land owner isn't going to change their mind just for climbers.

Nonetheless, I was blown away at the size, angles and, as far as I could tell, quality of limestone. I'm getting pretty good at being able to eye from afar what is decent limestone and what isn't in eastern Idaho and from what I could see, Harkness could deliver some seriousness…maybe too much!



Ethan did great on the hike in and out. He did take a mean header though as we were booking it out of there to get off the exposed ridge when the storm cell I had been keeping my eye on decided to switch directions and come straight at us with much fury. This morning his knee is banged up and swollen but he's a trooper and still wants to get back out there.

I hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes by writing about Harkness but maybe there's a way to work with the land owner to allow a climber's trail that discretely winds it way through their property while staying out of view. The amount of good moderate-to-hard climbing possibilities there seem to warrant looking into it at least. The only thing is though is you still have to deal with the 1,000' uphill approach. Time to buy a lama.

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The Return of Thunder...Dr. Benson, that is

Mike Benson warms up on the Big Dam Boulder, Teton Dam.

Dr. Benson showing the kids how it's done.

Today was a pretty cool day for me. I was able to share it bouldering with some good friends who I don't actually get to climb with all that much. Yeah, we correspond via email, text and what-not on a weekly basis and they are always considerate in inviting me to join them. Alas though, conflicting schedules and, well, just life, seem to get in the way. So it was a real treat to spend even just a couple of precious hours with these folks. But even more so was the treat of having my good friend Mike come out today.

Mike and I first started in climbing together back 2001. He was the strong, experienced 5.12 climber and I was the weenie-inexperienced-barely-breaking-into-5.11a climber (not much has changed I guess, lol!) Most of what I've learned about movement, technique, training, and such, I owe to Mike.

Even I as got stronger and gained some technique, Mike was always the one who could sort out cruxes on routes quickly and work redpoints efficiently. Even when he'd take extended breaks from climbing, it never ceased to amaze me how much knowledge, mainly in the form of good techinque, he'd retain and be able to get back to form quickly. And I could totally see that today.

Mike hasn't been climbing much for the past 2-3 years. Family and other interests in life have kept him happy and busy. But what little we did today I could see all that knowledge coming out as he climbed. You can learn a lot from just watching someone with good technique – even if they aren't currently at their top climbing potential. Pretty damn cool, if you ask me.

As life progresses, we all eventually take up new and different interests. I've known a number of people that have drifted away from climbing to pursue other passions. I figure as long as you're passionate about whatever it is you do, then keep doing it. Never mind what the masses think.

But it would be awesome to see Mike back out there crushing it!

"You've gotta dance like there's nobody watching,
Love like you'll never be hurt,
Sing like there's nobody listening,
And live like it's heaven on earth."

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Tour of Cedar Creek

Marc Hanselman showing us how it's done on Jewel Thief.

Shaking off the pump at the anchors.

Chicken Out Ridge on Mt. Borah on the center skyline.

Tom at the start of Jewel Thief.

Tom warming up on a great .10+ named Fingerprints.

Yesterday Tom and I traveled to Cedar Creek in the Lost River Range to sample a new crag our friend Marc has been bolting.

Nestled in the shadow of Mt. Borah, the wall sits at about 8,200'. With a northerly aspect, tall pines and a healthy creek flowing just yards away it is a perfect summer crag that stays cool and sees hardly any direct sunlight.

The wall isn't particularly big, but with an average route height of 60' and current route count at about 25 (half of which are .11 – .13), there is plenty of fun to be had. The angles and hold selections make for powerful and pumpy, yet, tendon-friendly climbing. Pretty damn good combination, if you ask me. The limestone is similar to Slim Shady wall in Teton Canyon but slightly overhung for the most part.

Unfortunately it was a pretty high gravity day for me (I think I was still recovering from the Social D show, seriously, lol) so I didn't send anything noteworthy but I did sample routes that were certainly worth going back to redpoint. Jewel Thief and Caught on Tape – two .12's that are damn good routes.

Kudos to Marc for all the hard work. I'll be back for sure.

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Pure Rock Fury, .13b

Thanks to my friends for making this happen.

Yesterday was quite a memorable day for me. I was finally able to do the first ascent of a route that I bolted 3 years ago.

At a suggested rating of .13b, it's certainly my hardest send to date. With a few 1-hang runs on it, and even more many-hangs runs on it over the past few years, success on the route always seemed questionable in my mind. But there is one major hurdle that I think I've overcome in my head that has seemed to help me this season – NO EXCUSES.

Climbers always joke about "having your excuses dialed in" so that should you not be successful, well then, you've got a reason, right? Well, other than injuries, height differences, hangovers, etc., there really are no reasons to lean on excuses, (especially trivial ones) – except to save face. And that's what it boils down to – too much pride.

We've got to learn to lighten up and say "Fuck it". Have fun, try hard, and should you send, then nourish that hard-earned redpoint beer. Because you never know – that last run you passed up because of some weak excuse could have been it.

Fighting through the mono-to-mono move on the first ascent run.

Anyway, there was certainly a highly positive vibe in the air at the Fins yesterday. There was a period of low gravity for a bit in the afternoon before we all succumbed to sore tips and tired muscles.

One thing I want to point out: Heather Lords is a badass. Yup. That girl has the strongest will I think I've ever witnessed on the sharp end. No way to explain it in words, you just have to see her go for it. Impressive, yes.

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F.U.N.

Rick doing "The Virgins of Howe", .11d

Tyson pocket pickin' on Ghosts in the Shell, .12a

Tom rapping into the Solstice Wall (the wall is not a slab, btw)

Sunrise from atop the Headwall at the Fins, looking south. Big Southern Butte is on the right skyline

This past Sunday I was able to complete a project route named Al's Diner at the Fins.

Redpointing .13a for me is something that is well within my abilities but often times eludes me. Just like everyone else I've got the same excuses, (family, job, injuries, age, blah, blah, blah) that keep that carrot just out of arms reach. This time, however, the carrot tasted pretty sweet. Plus, it got me thinking more about the whole concept of "projecting" a route.

In the 11 or so years that I've been hugging rocks, I've seen some climbers get so wound up about sending their projects that it's made me wonder if they've forgotten why they started climbing in the first place. I've seen grown men and women on the verge of tears because they fell and didn't send. I've seen seemingly mature adults throw toddler-like tantrums when success was not the outcome on a route.

Which brings me to my point: Isn't this supposed to be fun? I will admit that I too get bummed when things don't work out but the most important lesson I've learned is that even if you are successful on a route, life goes on – you still have to mow the grass, pay the bills, clean the cat box, etc. To me, what makes a better person is someone who can learn from their failures and keep smiling. It's not worth getting bent out of shape when things don't go as planned. Which bring me to another point – Don't "plan" on anything other than walking away from the crag with a smile on your face.

Oh, and Tom also walked away with a smile on his face too – and the redpoint as well on Al's Diner! Good work T-Rock.

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Reconnecting

Scott crankin' down as Izzy-dog ponders the meaning of life

Scott dishing it up on Al's Diner, .13a

Yesterday Scott Gardner, Tom Smartt and I hit the Fins for an excellent mid-week session. It was Scott's first time up there and I believe he walked away with a very good impression of the place.

It was Scott's 3rd time back on rock this year after about a 6 year absence from climbing (he was mtn. biking hardcore during that time) The dude is an animal. The warmups out there are mainly 5.11 and Scott seemed to get to the anchors pretty easily, which is not an easy feat out there – especially if you have never been there before. It was inspiring to watch someone who has been climbing way longer than I have but has been out of the game a bit just seamlessly flow back into the movement, rhythm and mental structure of climbing. I can tell the technique, but most importantly passion, is still very much alive in Scott when it comes to climbing.

The definite climbing related highlight yesterday was Tom's sooooo close send of Al's Diner. The last move on the second crux is so critical on getting into a very hard to see left foot and then being able to hang on while stepping up on that tricky left foothold to get your right foot up onto a crimp. Your right arm is burning and your core muscles are very worked by then. He was seriously about 1/2 a move from exiting the crux. Pretty impressive for a "kid" that wrenched his ankle this April and hasn't done a whole lot of climbing since then. I tried Al's on lead but had a few hangs to get to the anchors. It was a high gravity day from me. However, I wanted to kick myself in the ass as on my next run as I opted for TR but then sent Al's clean – on TR though. Freakin idiot.

BTW, in regards to the title of this post: It was a pleasure climbing with Scott again (and Tom, like always) and catching up on friends that I haven't seen in years. Scott's always been this friend of mine that I've thought of as "someone who gets it". By "it" I mean that he understands reality – he isn't living to keep up with the Jones', keeps his shit together and hasn't succumbed to the mundane even though (like me) he has a family, house, job, etc. Plus hanging out with him reminded me that Britt and I need to make more of an effort to reconnect with old friends because we have been really bad at doing so. We've had some memorable times in the past with some of these people and we'd like to keep the friendships alive and healthy…even with life as hectic as it can seem.

And next time Al's Diner is going down.

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